Proenza Schouler designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez have an amazing talent to make functionally simple things very interesting and really cool. And their Fall 2012 collection was no exception—simple things like jackets, sweatshirts, mini-skirts, dresses of simple silhouettes and wide-leg trousers drew their complexity not from adding decorative details as much as by playing with proportions and textures.

Asian motifs were reflected in the use of elements like a Japanese collar typical of kimono, as well as in materials like quilted silk and characteristic embroidery. Almost all shoulder pieces were emphasized, and the skirts were extremely short. In their trouser suits, the designers played on the edge of feminine carelessness and androgynous grunge. A men’s shirt transformed into a women’s coat looked especially cool.

As usual, the Jack and Lazaro’s accessories play a special role in the collection – blunt shoes and boots with a mid-high heel promise to become real bestsellers, while fur clutches and ankle boots of braided black-and-white leather with a cut-out toe and thick high heel in rich red and ultramarine colors will definitely be welcome on the pages of fashion magazines.

—Margarita Mukhsinova